Outdoor Water Use

It is important to know the type of soil you have: sandy, organic matter, loam, clay or mineral soil. Sandy soil will drain quickly compared to a clay or mineral soil that retains more water. Learn how to test your soil – all you need is a mason jar.  

Maintain a neutral soil pH (6.5-7.5). A pH test from a garden centre can help you understand the acidity of your soil and improve growing conditions for your plants. If your soil is too acidic, amend your soil with organic matter or lime to obtain a neutral pH. Many vegetables prefer neutral, however some like it slightly more acidic. 

If you are an urban gardener, test your soil for heavy metals and contaminants. You may do this for free through the Healing City Soils program. Learn more through the Compost Education Center 

Compacted soil happens when soil particles are pressed tightly together, reducing the space for air and water. It can occur due to heavy foot traffic, machinery, or even rain on bare soil. Compacted soil does not have enough space for air and water to move easily to plant roots and can harm beneficial soil organisms. This makes it hard for roots to grow and for water to drain properly.  

Prevent soil compaction by:

• Walking on garden beds as little as possible and avoid heavy equipment on the soil.
• Create permanent paths in garden beds and mulch the exposed soil to prevent weeds between your rows.

Amend soil compaction:  

•  If your soil is hard as rock, it may be better to remove 15 to 30 centimetres (6 to 12 inches) and replace with new topsoil and top with mulch. Use your best judgement.
• Apply a 12-centimetre (5 inch) layer of mulch around trees and shrubs, and on to exposed soil in garden and vegetable beds.  
• Consider planting a cover crop. The roots of a cover crop will help loosen up the soil. Instead of pulling it at the end of the season, mow it instead so that the roots break down naturally.  

Compost helps keep your soil loose and fertile while retaining moisture and proper drainage.

When choosing compost, look for:

• Earthy smell
• Dark brown or black colour
• Fibrous texture
• No weed sprouts

How to use:

• Dig the compost into the top 15-20 cm of soil over the entire planting bed for spring or fall planting.
• Or use it as mulch!

There are many other uses for compost, find out more through the Compost Education Center.

You can also make your own!

Kitchen scraps and yard and garden waste are valuable resources. Composting at home is the most efficient and environmentally friendly way to manage these materials. You will conserve landfill space, feed your soil, entice beneficial insects, cut down on inorganic fertilizer use and reduce greenhouse gas emissions.

Mulch is any material added onto the soil surface, which is often organic. Mulch reduces the number of weeds, conserves soil moisture, moderates soil temperatures, reduces soil erosion and adds beneficial nutrients back into the soil.

Including: leaves, compost, grass clippings, straw, wood chips and coarse bark.  

Vegetable gardens – light mulches (leaf mold or dried leaves, grass clippings, and straw)

Perennial gardens – course mulches (straw, wood chips, and course bark).

Mulch a 5-10cm protective layer around plants in early summer. Keep mulch at least an inch (2.5cm) away from plant stems to prevent rot and pest damage.

Fall mulch can also be added to reduce soil erosion and maintain warmer soil temperatures. To smother aggressive perennial weeds, add a brown cardboard or several newspaper layers, water and mulch on top. This will block light from reaching weeds and should help reduce numbers.

Learn more about mulching with Compost Education Center.  

Healthy gardening means your plants might not need extra fertilizer. But if you decide to use some, stick with natural, slow-release options and don’t overdo it. Adding too much can mess with your soil’s balance and even pollute nearby streams. A little goes a long way! Learn more about preventing stormwater pollution. 

The annual rainfall for the capital region is about 1660mm, with the majority falling from October to March. An average of 200mm falls from May to September.

To calculate the amount of rain that can be collected at each downspout in litres, determine the area of your roof, the depth of rainfall in millimeters and the number of downspouts. Put these numbers into the following calculation:

(rainfall amount in mm) x (rooftop area in m2)x (0.75*) / (number of downspouts)

*On average systems have a collection efficiency of 75%.

Connect storage containers together or install a cistern with a capacity of 750L (200 gallons) to 3800L (1000 gallons) to increase your harvesting capacity.  

• Saves treated drinking water.
• Free source of water.
• Delays peak runoff during a rainfall event which reduces the burden on our infrastructure.
• Reduces the pressure on storm drainage and the sanitary sewer system.
• Reduces soil erosion from the foundation of your home.
• Promotes healthy plants, as rain water is the ambient temperature, has micro-nutrients and is chlorine-free.
• Using rainwater for irrigation, will help to replenish groundwater stores. 

• Do not use untreated rainwater for drinking, cooking or bathing.
• Make sure your rain barrel has a secured lid to prevent access by children and wildlife, avoid breeding mosquitoes and reduce contamination.
• Use a piece of window screen to catch debris.
• Rain barrel material is strong enough to hold the weight of water, such as food grade plastic.
• Install an overflow attachment and hose attachment for watering.
• Position the barrel high enough to be able to place a bucket or watering can beneath the tap.
• Untreated rainwater from roof types such as copper, zinc (galvanized metal), chemically treated wood shingles or shakes, asphalt shingles, or those treated with chemicals may not be suitable for watering vegetable gardens.
• Empty the rain barrel after each rainfall in the winter and spring to make sure it is ready to capture the next rainfall. This helps reduce peak runoff and the burden on infrastructure.
• When designing and installing capture systems, or making modifications to your property or drainage flow, consider provincial and municipal codes, regulations and standards.
• If your rainwater harvesting system is connected to the municipal drinking water lines, a cross connection control device (RPPA) is required on the potable water connection to prevent rainwater backflow into the system. Learn more about cross connections here.

As the communities across the capital region continue to grow, there are more impervious surfaces and less forest and wetland. Rain quickly moves from our roofs, streets and parking lots to storm drains that enter local waterways and shorelines. This intense runoff picks up various pollutants along the way including oil, metals and bacteria. 

Learn more about reducing stormwater pollution 

Grey water is lightly used water from bathroom sinks, showers, tubs, and clothes washers. It doesn't include toilet, kitchen sink, or dishwasher waste. This water can be treated and reused for things like watering plants, washing cars, or flushing toilets.

At the CRD's Fisgard location, rainwater is collected to flush toilets. Grey water must be treated to kill germs before storage or use. Watering plants with grey water is often allowed even during water restrictions.

You can save water before your shower by catching it in a bucket to water plants later.

Benefits of Grey Water Recycling

• Save money on water bill
• Use less treated drinking water
• Reduce pressure on waste water treatment
• Reduce pollution going into waterways
• Delay expansion of drinking water and waste water treatment infrastructure

Considerations

• Depending on the greywater recycling system, the payback period may extend past the lifespan of the system
• Grey water systems must meet municipal and provincial regulations and building code
• Systems must be align with Health Canada Guidelines for Domestic Reclaimed Water for Use in Toilet and Urinal Flushing
• Potential cross connections with potable water lines must be properly controlled so that the potable water supply is not contaminated
• Landscape irrigation systems using grey water must be designed by a professional or a Registered Onsite Wastewater Practitioner, and filing documents must be submitted to the Health Authority
• Grey water should only be used for non-food crops
• Grey water is considered sewage - when it leaves a building, it must be disposed of in accordance with the sewerage system regulation

Try and assess the amount of lawn that you actually require for activities. You can replace some areas of lawn with low-growing ground covers like clover or herbs, vegetable gardens or native plant gardens.

Adapted to our Northern Mediterranean climate, native plants are often pest and disease free with no watering and fertilizer required. Converting a traditional lawn to native plant meadows saves time, money, and water! Learn more about native plants.

Green lawns only need one inch (2.5 cm) of water per week including rainfall, even in the driest conditions. Deep, infrequent watering encourages strong root systems. Using too much water causes nutrient runoff, promotes shallow rooting and contributes to the buildup of thatch. After a day of heavy rain, consider skipping watering until the following week or install a rain shut-off device onto your irrigation system that will automatically turn your system off when it is raining. 

To reduce evaporation and scorching of leaves from the sun, do not water in the middle of the day. Make sure your sprinkler or irrigation system is watering the lawn and not hard surfaces such as driveways and sidewalks. Fix leaks and broken or clogged sprinkler heads.  

Remember the CRD's Stage 1 Watering Schedule is in effect each year from May 1 through September 30. 

Set your mower height to leave five to six centimeters (about two inches) and cut no more than the top third of the grass length. Longer grass encourages stronger, deeper roots, and can help shade the soil to reduce evaporation. Leave grass clippings to decompose, they act as mini-mulch to reduce evaporation and add nutrients. Keep mower blades sharp to avoid tearing the grass. Don’t cut wet grass. 

Thatch is the layer of dead matted grass and organic matter that forms between the blades of grass and the soil. A thin layer of thatch can be beneficial, preventing evaporation. Too much thatch (more than 1.5 cm) can be harmful and rob the roots of oxygen and water. Remove thatch from your lawn at least once a year, using a rake, a thatching attachment on your mower or a thatching machine.

Aerate in the spring and fall to improve nutrient uptake by the grass by increasing water absorption, reducing compaction, and helping oxygen and organic matter reach the roots. Aerate by renting a powered aerator or hiring a professional. If you have an underground irrigation system, identify the location of lines before aerating to avoid punctures. After aeration, overseed and dress your lawn with a thin layer of compost to help soil hold water and nutrients. 

Overseed with a low-maintenance lawn seed mixture such as micro clover, fescues and perennial rye grasses for a drought-tolerant and weed-repellent lawn. 
Micro clover will:

• Stay green longer during the dry summer months
• Feed the lawn naturally by fixing nitrogen into the soil
• Reduce weeds
• Save time and energy with less mowing and maintenance

Plan to overseed at least a month before the start of watering schedule (May 1). 

Weeding prevents roots from establishing and draining resources from your lawn. Top-dress damaged areas with sand or soil and overseed before weeds can re-establish. Be sure to handle invasive species properly.

In-ground systems offer different types of nozzles based on your needs. Multi-stream rotary sprinklers are efficient for lawns, as they use larger water drops that are less likely to be affected by wind or evaporation. Spray heads can quickly deliver water.

A soaker hose is a cheaper alternative to a micro/drip system and works well for small gardens on flat ground. They’re easy to install and are great for raised beds. It’s important to note that soaker hoses are considered sprinklers under the Water Conservation Bylaw.

No matter which irrigation system you choose, make sure it runs efficiently. Program your irrigation controller correctly, adjust it regularly, install a rain shut-off device or soil moisture sensor, and maintain your system often. Also, ensure that your lawn has its own watering zone separate from other plants. 

Micro/drip irrigation systems deliver water directly to the roots of plants, making them highly water efficient. These systems use low-volume components that consume less than 20 gallons per hour and operate at less than 25 PSI, ensuring that water reaches the root zone of the plants being irrigated. This includes systems like micro spray, point source emitters, and linear tape systems. 

There are many types of micro/drip irrigation systems available, depending on the specific needs of your lawn and garden. 

Check out this video to learn more about micro/drip systems:

One of the most important parts of an irrigation system is the irrigation controller. This automatic device controls how often, how long, and when each watering session starts. Choosing a controller with the flexibility to adjust to different landscape and weather conditions is key to efficient watering. When properly set, the right controller can help you save water, reduce your water bills, and maintain healthier landscaping.

Irrigation controllers also make it easier to manage your watering schedule, helping you follow the CRD Watering Schedule.

Here are some benefits an irrigation controller can have:

• You can adjust the controller's schedule each month to match seasonal changes and temperatures.
• They use water budgeting to automatically increase or decrease watering based on seasonal needs.
• Options to set different programs for different zones, depending on their specific watering needs.
• Rain and soil moisture sensors will automatically stop watering during or after rainfall.
• You can set the system to run multiple start times for cycle and soak irrigation, which allows water to soak in better.

For the most efficient results you should ensure that the controller you choose has these features:

• Multiple independent programs – especially useful for compliance to the CRD watering schedules 
• Station run times from one up to 200 minutes in one-minute increments
• Multiple start times per program  
• Water budgeting/seasonal adjust feature  
• 365-day calendar, adjusting for leap year  
• Non-volatile memory or battery back-up in case of power failure  
• “Off”, “Auto”, and “Manual” operation modes  
• Capability to add a rain shut-off device or moisture sensor 

Choosing the right irrigation professional is crucial to making sure your landscape gets the right amount of water efficiently. A skilled professional will design a system that fits your lawn's specific needs, considering factors like soil, plants, and climate. They can also install features like rain sensors to prevent overwatering. A proper installation reduces the need for repairs, saves water, and keeps your landscape healthy and vibrant.

If you are considering hiring a contractor to do the design and/or installation of a new system or maintaining a system, ensure they are certified by the Irrigation Industry Association of BC.

Follow these tips to help you choose a contractor:

• Check for valid business licensing with your municipality
• Ask for proof of liability insurance
• Be sure the contractor addresses any of your concerns, such as the best system for water efficiency
• Ask how to turn off the irrigation system in case of an emergency
• Ask how to adjust the irrigation schedule and operate the irrigation controller once the installation is complete. Ensure the watering schedule days and times are in line with the water conservation bylaw.
• Make certain each contractor inspects your property prior to submitting a bid.
• Be sure your contractor has obtained and purchased plumbing and electrical permits for the work to be carried out.